Discover New Zealand with DOC
The Department of Conservation (DOC) manages more than 200 campsites throughout New Zealand. Some are more popular than others but it pays to get off the beaten track. This is the first in a new series that shines a light on some of DOC’s lesser known gems.
NGAHERENGA CAMPSITE, PUREORA FOREST PARK (TD #1891)
For all you keen cyclists out there, Ngaherenga is a must. The Timber Trail, one of the most popular Great Rides in the New Zealand Cycle Trails network, begins at Pureora. The 87 km trail is a two-day ride or you can cycle shorter sections of it at various access points along the way. It’s mostly Grade 2 (Easy) with a few Grade 3 (Intermediate) hills at the start of the trail.
The Timber Trail passes through magnificent podocarp forests of rimu, totara, miro, matai and kahikatea and offers extensive views of the surrounding landscape. Following historic bush tramways, old bulldozer and haul roads, it features 35 bridges, including eight large suspension bridges. The longest is 141 metres. It also showcases the historic Ongarue Spiral, a marvel of engineering.
The campsite is near a stream in the lush Pureora Forest Forest Park which straddles the Hauhungaroa and Rangitoto Ranges between Lake Taupo and Te Kuiti. It’s a hidden wonderland of tall trees, clear rivers and rare wildlife. Pureora was once a thriving timber village—today just a few houses remain along with DOC’s field base.
Sections of forest were extensively logged between 1930 and the early 1970s, with exotic trees also planted for timber. Despite this, the park still has one of the largest tracts of native broadleaf podocarp forest in the North Island, and its towering trees and luxurious undergrowth are truly awe-inspiring. There are many rimu, mata?, miro and tawa in the lowland forest. There are also nationally important wetlands and shrublands within the park—many of the shrublands are known as frost flats.
Since 1995, intensive efforts at forest restoration in various locations have ensured breeding success and protection of many native species. This includes the rare North Island k?kako, k?k? (forest parrot) and p?toitoi (toutouwai/North Island robin). There are populations of the rarer k?rearea (New Zealand falcon), k?k?riki (parakeet) and whio (blue duck) as well as both species of native bats (long-tailed and short-tailed) and Hochstetter’s frog.
Walkers are well catered for in the area. The 2.6km walk to the summit of Mt Pureora provides panoramic views of Lake Taupo, Tongariro National Park, Mt Taranaki and Kaimanawa Ranges. The track starts from the Link Rd car park on the northeast side of Mt Pureora, with boardwalks and steps to make walking easier.
The Totara Walk is an easy 30 minute loop that winds its way among the giant trees for which Pureora is famous. Ferns grow in abundance and if you’re lucky, you may hear or see native birds such as t??, fantails, tomtits, wax-eyes, kerer? or k?k?. Glow worms can be seen at night.
Other sights worth seeing in the area include The Buried Forest, a forest preserved by the violent volcanic eruption that formed Lake Taupo. It was accidentally discovered in 1983 by a digger operator. The Forest Tower is a 12-metre-high tower that gives a different perspective of life up in the forest canopy. It’s a good spot for observing native birds such as kerer?/k?k?, k?k?riki or k?k?.
NEED TO KNOW
Where: Situated in Pureora Forest Park in Waikato, approximately 55 km southeast of Te Kuiti.
Facilities: Ngaherenga has 16 non-powered or tent sites. No booking required
Getting there: Take the Barryville/ Maraeroa Roads off SH 30. The campsite is 20 km east of Bennydale, adjacent to the DOC Pureora Base.
MANGAMATE CAMPSITE, WHIRINAKI FOREST PARK (TD #2832)
Towering trees, rushing rivers, a wide variety of habitats and a fascinating past combine to create Whirinaki Te Pua-a-T?ne Conservation Park. This was one of New Zealand’s most famous conservation battlegrounds, where people actively fought to save a magnificent native forest.
Not surprisingly, Whirinaki is best known for its awe-inspiring trees including rimu, t?tara, kahikatea, mata? and miro. These forest giants have always been valued but in quite different ways now compared to the past. Visitors who marvel at their great height and size are often surprised to learn that logging of this forest ceased as recently as the mid-1980s.
Timber milling first began at Te Whaiti in 1928 when Crown and M?ori land was logged for t?tara fencing material. As demand for high quality wood gradually increased, a sawmill and the original Minginui Village were built near the present village site in the 1930s. Work was plentiful and before long Minginui had three sawmills. By the late 1970s around 130 people were employed in the forest industry at Whirinaki. But times were changing. In 1975 the three mills amalgamated and between 1978 and 1979 a bitter public controversy raged over the future of the forest. Conservation groups came into direct conflict with the local community who saw this as a threat to their lifestyle and employment. In 1985 a new government ended the logging of native trees and by 1987 all logging of native timber had stopped at Whirinaki.
Now it’s a popular tourist attraction, particularly for tourists who are passionate about wildlife. Birdlife is diverse and abundant. The forest supports high numbers of rare birds such as the North Island brown kiwi, red-and yellow-crowned k?k?riki, and North Island k?k?. Other notable birds include whio (blue duck) and the endangered k?rearea (New Zealand falcon).
There is excellent trout fishing in the Whirinaki, Rangitaiki, and Whaeo rivers. Longfin tuna (eels) and several other species of native fish also live in these rivers. New Zealand’s only native land mammals, long-tailed and short-tailed bats (pekapeka), are present but rarely seen.
Visitors may catch sight of a long-tailed bat around the forest edges in the evening. Deer and pig hunting is also very popular in Whirinaki. Hunters are welcome as they help control wild animal numbers. Permits for deer and pig hunting are available year round.
There are a number of superb short walks close to Minginui ranging from one hour to a full day. Some of the popular walks include the Sanctuary Track and Whirinaki Night Life Walk, a 1 hr 45 min loop track. It can be walked night or day, but just after dark is the best time to hear the night animals, such as ruru/morepork w?t? and kiwi, and see glow worms.
Waiatiu Falls Track is an easy, well-graded track that passes through magnificent podocarp forest. Taupiri Lookout is a 27 km round trip by car from Minginui. It offers awesome 360 degree views of the area and on a fine clear day you can see the bluffs of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tarawera and the Paeroa Range. For mountain bikers, old logging roads offer great off-road opportunities but are not marked or maintained.